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The Verona Opera Festival
Currently in its 86th season, the Verona Opera Festival is an unforgettable experience even if you are not an avid opera fan. But beware: you might get hooked, says Penny Visman
What a spectacular sight. Thousands in the audience light candles at dusk as the performance begins in the Roman (30AD) Amphitheatre. And because the acoustics in the arena are near perfect no microphones are needed, a rarity in outdoor entertainment.
Although people come from all over the world to this festival, the audience is predominately Italian. Knowing their stuff, they demand, and get, thrilling performances. They don't hesitate to hiss at any disturbance during the singing. But when a performer exceeds their exacting standards they will clap, stamp their feet and cheer bravo until they get a biss (an encore of the aria without the acting).
It was ideal to stay in an hotel within walking distance of the Arena and soak up the ambience. Most of the cafes and restaurants in the area serve meals before and after the performances. If you like the look of somewhere in particular, it's best to make a booking. As this was likely to be a once-in-a-lifetime visit we decided to book the best opera seats. These are red-plush and comfortable, on the level, in the centre of the arena. The music seems to wrap around you. There are various prices of seats on the tiered stone steps and this is where you get to light a candle (pick them up out of the boxes provided). But make sure you hire a cushion from one of the vendors. You can take drinks to your seats (buy on site or bring your own). It's all very relaxed. No dress code.
The first opera performed in the Verona arena was Aida, to mark the 100th anniversary of Verdi's birth in 1913. Since then this great Egyptian spectacular, written to celebrate the opening of the Suez Canal, has always been on the programme. Imagine the triumphal scene of The Grand March such a setting. Equally memorable is Verdi's Nabucco (King Nebuchadnezzar). I will never forget the emotional impact when the dark stage was lit by hundreds of little lamps as the glorious Hebrew Slaves Chorus Va, Pensiero, filled the night. And yes, too right, the audience got their biss. This moving chorus was sung by the crowds at Verdi's funeral.
How delightful to sit out in the warm night afterwards, sipping an Italian liqueur with an espresso, gelato on the side. Lots more to see in Verona of course. Romantics will enjoy the fantasy of the Romeo and Juliet balcony. And it is amazing to read some of the hundreds of heart-rending love letters and messages pinned to the trees in the courtyard below.
For most of us, Italian opera will always bring thoughts of the late, great Luciano Pavarotti. No doubt, Nessun Dorma will be resonating in many minds in Verona, despite Puccini's Turandot not being on the programme.
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