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48 Hours in Bruges
Bruges is often called the Venice of the North, but it is a gem in its own right, says Nicola Iseard, who discovers an enchanting city filled with hidden canals, medieval towers and some of the best chocolate shops in Belgium
Morning stroll...
Bruges is a medieval masterpiece, with a maze of crumbling cobbled streets that call out to be explored. While a horse-drawn carriage ride is a wonderful way of seeing the sights, nothing beats an early morning walk. Start at the edge of the city, making your way towards the Markt (old town square) in the centre, and you'll pass guild houses, stone bridges over hidden canals, and some of the finest chocolate shops in Belgium (The Chocolate Line, located on a pretty street near the main square, is a personal favourite). When you reach the Markt, stop to admire the 13th-century Belfry tower.
Spot of sightseeing...
To really appreciate the Belfry tower you have to get above street level. Walk up its 366 steps, past the impressive clock mechanism, to the top where the sweeping city views are breathtaking. Meanwhile, to really understand just how seriously Bruges takes its chocolate, visit the Choco-Story museum. Housed in a grand townhouse, it displays more than 1,000 artefacts showing you how chocolate has developed through the centuries, from its origins in ancient Mayan and Aztec culture to the present day.
Place for refreshments...
While there are plenty of lovely cafés in the city for a mid-afternoon pit stop, no trip to Bruges is complete without experiencing high tea at the De Orangerie hotel. Perched on one of the most picturesque canals in the city, it serves up exquisite treats and tea every afternoon in the grand oak panelled restaurant. Think pressed white linen tablecloths, waiters wearing half coats with white gloves, and delicate three-tier cake trays filled with scones and pastries.
Afternoon excursion...
Hop on the old paddle steamer, Lamme Goedzak, for a half an hour ride along the canal to the quaint village of Damme, north-east of Bruges, well known for its numerous bookshops and fine restaurants. The main street, Kerkstraat, is edged by what remains of the medieval town, most memorably the elegant Town Hall and Church of Our Lady, with its classic Gothic style architecture.
Supper time...
Restaurant 't Zwaantje, just a short walk from the Markt, is a real treat. Choose a table by the window, overlooking the terrace and orangery. While the wine list reads like an encyclopedia of vintages (more than 200 wines from 15 countries), it's the menu that steals the show, where many dishes incorporate chocolate. You won't believe how tasty fried scallops on mashed celery with a light cocoa sauce can be.
* Nicola Iseard is the deputy travel editor of the Daily Express.
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